Capers

Guide to Sicilian capers: Pantelleria PGI, Aeolian Islands PDO and caperberries

Capers are often misunderstood. In supermarkets they are usually found in vinegar, often with little information about origin. Sicilian salted capers are a different product: more aromatic, more persistent and much more useful in cooking.

Pantelleria PGI and Aeolian Islands PDO: what is the difference?

Pantelleria PGI capers come from a volcanic, dry and windy island between Sicily and Tunisia. The plant grows in extreme conditions and produces small, intense, aromatic buds. They are perfect for pasta, fish, caponata and strong Mediterranean dishes.

Aeolian Islands PDO capers, especially from Salina, tell another story. The climate is more humid and temperate, and the caper can be fleshier, elegant and persistent. Lorenzo Mirabito’s farm is an important reference for PDO capers from Salina, while Pantelleria is represented by producers such as Coop Agricola Produttori Capperi and Kazzen. The difference is not only geographical: aroma, texture and use in the dish change.

Why are salted capers better than capers in vinegar?

Vinegar covers the natural fragrance of the caper with acidity. Sea salt preserves and matures the bud, keeping herbal, floral and savoury notes. Before use, rinse salted capers briefly in cold water; do not soak them for too long or you will lose aroma.

What are caperberries?

The caper is the closed flower bud. The caperberry is the fruit that develops after the flower opens: larger, with a small stem, fleshier and milder. Caperberries are excellent as antipasti, in cocktails, on platters and with cheeses.

How do I use capers in cooking?

Use them in puttanesca, caponata, fish dishes, salads, sauces and bruschetta. Finely chopped capers add depth to mayonnaise, salsa verde and butter. Fried capers become crisp and aromatic, perfect as a topping for salads or simple pasta.

How should salted capers be stored?

Keep them in their salt, in a closed jar, in a cool and dry place. They last for months. If the salt becomes slightly damp, it is normal. Always take them with a clean spoon and rinse only the amount you need.

Which wine pairs with capers?

With fish and caper dishes, choose dry Sicilian white wines such as Catarratto, Grillo or Carricante. If you are exploring Pantelleria, try also the island’s sweet wines from the Sicilian sweet wines section.